General Equipment List for Acrylics and Watercolor
This list is to compliment the lists I give out in class; I have combined the equipment lists you will receive. Please be sure to note the media when making any purchases, the equipment will be discussed at the first meeting, if you have any questions on what to buy. The following are only suggestions for basic equipment, if you have supplies already that will suffice, you don’t need to buy anything else unless you need it. Many items are interchangeable I have noted where there are differences.
Colors - I use a similar color palette for both acrylics and water color, be sure to buy the colors in the correct media (watercolor or acrylic). Cadmium Yellow Light, Napthal Red (manufactures sometimes use their own name for this red such as Grumbacher Red or Winsor Red), Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Sap Green, (French) Ultra Marine Blue, Dioxizine Purple. Optional additional colors: Cadmium Orange, Light Blue Violet, Hooker’s Green, Thalo Yellow Green, Alizarin Crimson, Cobalt Blue, Cadmium Red Light.
Acrylic only: Titanium White (Bleached). No, I didn’t forget black, I do not use it in most cases.
Palette – Most anything can be used from commercial palettes, to meat trays to put paints out on, but it is helpful to have an area where you can mix. Having a piece of plexi-glass (Acrylic), glass or spare meat tray to mix in is helpful because they are easy to clean.
Brushes - Acrylic: 2” (or larger) Blending Brush (Haki) the bristles should be very soft
#10 Flat Bristle Brush; #4 or #6 Flat Bristle Brush; #4 or #6 Flat Sable Brush; # 4 Round Sable Brush; # 3 Liner. Oil brushes are the same as acrylic brushes.
Watercolor: You don’t need really expensive brushes, but you do need well-constructed ones. The ferrules (metal part) should be solid no seams, the bristles should be even, and hold their shape when wet. Use brushes designed for watercolor, they usually have shorter handles and can be either natural sable (usually more expensive) or synthetic sable.
2” Hake brush (doesn’t need to be expensive) or 2” Wash Brush; 1” or ¾” Flat Sable or Angled Shader; ½” Flat Sable or Angled Shader; #6 Round Sable; #2 or #3 Script Liner Brush.
Optional Brushes: ¼” Flat or Angled Shader; #8 or #10 Round Sable; #1 or 2 Round Sable
Canvas– Acrylic: You can use stretched canvas, canvas boards, canvas pads, or gessoed masonite boards. Size is up to the student though I suggest at least 8” x 10”. Also, because of limited class space, no larger than 36” maximum in any direction.
Paper - Watercolor: The most important aspect of buying watercolor paper is weight. Whether you buy a pad, a block, or individual sheets, be sure that it is 140 lbs Cold press watercolor paper, anything less will buckle when wet. Each paper manufacturer makes their paper just a bit different, and it does have an effect on the final product. If you are having trouble with your technique, it is probably the paper and not you.
If you are using a watercolor block you don’t need to have a support for your paper, however, if you are using a tablet or single sheet paper, you need a support. I use acrylic boards that I get from OSH or Home Depot usually where they have the masonite and molding, it’s usually used as a substitute for glass in pictures. You can also use masonite. They come in all sizes or can be cut down, find a size that is a bit bigger than the paper you will be working on.
Other supplies to have –Both classes: Spray bottle for water to keep paints moist, paper towels (I prefer Viva), container for water, an old tooth brush, masking tape or blue painter’s tape, sponge and/or sea sponges and permanent fine tipped marker (Sharpie).
Acrylic: Single edge razor blade, Gesso, soft vine charcoal or charcoal pencil, white chalk.
Watercolor: No. 2B Pencil, either/or gummed eraser or Magic Rub, masking fluid, soap (old, small bar is fine), cheap or old brushes for the masking fluid, salt.
Easels should be available in the class, however, if you have a tabletop easel or an easel you want to work on, it is okay to bring it as well.